• Dear Guest, Please note that adult content is not permitted on this forum. We have had our Google ads disabled at times due to some posts that were found from some time ago. Please do not post adult content and if you see any already on the forum, please report the post so that we can deal with it. Adult content is allowed in the glory hole - you will have to request permission to access it. Thanks, scara

Anti Mould Paint

markysimmo

markysimmo

Johnny nice-tits
We have a mould issue in our house
We have been advised to buy a good quality Anti-Mould paint
I literally have no clue which one is the best to buy so anybody on here with experience or have any advice as to what to buy/use
 
The real question is why do you have mold. Usually, it is a sign of poor ventilation which leads to excessive moisture buildup and the condensation results in mold. I would fix that first before painting.

edit: that mold is forming also points to a cold wall. The dew point is where the cold meets the warm, which is the inside surface of the wall if the insulation is not good (or not there at all).
 
Last edited:
Rorschach said:
The real question is why do you have mould. Usually, it is a sign of poor ventilation which leads to excessive moisture buildup and condensation (mould). I would fix that first before painting.
Click to expand...

I'll second that. I had it happen in a room that had been shut up for an extended time without sufficient ventilation. Lesson learnt.
 
Anti-mould paint is unlikely to stop mould. It just stops it sinking in deeper and makes it easier to wipe off.

As has been stated, better to stop at source
 
I agree with the above - fix the problem, don't mask it. I know more about damp than mold, but it's usually about applying some basic science around airflow and temperature differences. Older houses were designed to be drafty and sometimes by making them airtight with non breathable materials you create problems
 
I have an Envirovent loft system and also 2 extractor fans. The loft system pushes air around the house which helps with any mould issues. To be honest I don't see how different it is to leaving the window open. I will be getting a loft conversion at some point so it's going to come out. I guess I'll see if it really does work.
 
Spursman said:
I have an Envirovent loft system and also 2 extractor fans. The loft system pushes air around the house which helps with any mould issues. To be honest I don't see how different it is to leaving the window open. I will be getting a loft conversion at some point so it's going to come out. I guess I'll see if it really does work.
Click to expand...
PIV has advantages to just opening windows. Firstly it is continous, so dry air is constantly displacing the moisture laden air. Opening the windows is OK but it really only works effectively when there is cross ventilation, windows on the front and back open at the same time. And you can't always leave the windows open for security and other reasons. Also the attic air would be a few degrees warmer than the outside air too so you get the benefit of that. I'd be inclined to keep your unit in the eaves if possible after the attic conversion.
 
Last edited:
Rorschach said:
PIV has advantages to just opening windows. Firstly it is continous, so dry air is constantly displacing the moisture laden air. Opening the windows is OK but it really only works effectively when there is cross ventilation, windows on the front and back open at the same time. And you can't always leave the windows open for security and other reasons. Also the attic air would be a few degrees warmer than the outside air too so you get the benefit of that. I'd be inclined to keep your unit in the eaves if possible after the attic conversion.
Click to expand...

Good point, it was the previous owners who installed it. I think it might be a good idea to install it into the eves. As the loft is quite cold the unit pushes out cold air, When its converted that wont be the case anymore.
 
Rorschach said:
PIV has advantages to just opening windows. Firstly it is continous, so dry air is constantly displacing the moisture laden air. Opening the windows is OK but it really only works effectively when there is cross ventilation, windows on the front and back open at the same time. And you can't always leave the windows open for security and other reasons. Also the attic air would be a few degrees warmer than the outside air too so you get the benefit of that. I'd be inclined to keep your unit in the eaves if possible after the attic conversion.
Click to expand...
I'm intrigued by this system. If the air is warm, how does it not just rise back up to the loft?
 
scaramanga said:
I'm intrigued by this system. If the air is warm, how does it not just rise back up to the loft?
Click to expand...

The air isn't warm, its only warmed up slightly from the loft temperature. I have a contact at Environvent if you want it. Previous owners installed it in my house. They said it was due to their son having asthma. Dont think that would have aided him in any way. this is the system ive got but there are probably other companies that do the same thing. Its not cheap.

https://www.envirovent.com/
 
Spursman said:
Good point, it was the previous owners who installed it. I think it might be a good idea to install it into the eves. As the loft is quite cold the unit pushes out cold air, When its converted that wont be the case anymore.
Click to expand...
The loft is designed to be cold/vented. It needs the air ciculating to stop the rafters from rotting. The insulation envelope of the house would be the ceiling in this case but when you convert this attic space the eaves should also be cold/vented for the same reason (also make sure there is air moving in the rafters above your new ceiling). So you won't get warm air after the conversion but pretty much the same as before I would think. It is still not a bad idea though IMO.
 
scaramanga said:
I'm intrigued by this system. If the air is warm, how does it not just rise back up to the loft?
Click to expand...
As @Spursman mentioned the air is just a little warmer than outside air for PIV systems. I've read of some PIV systems with heating elements but you are turning a low wattage system into something quite a bit more expensive to run and it might not even be that effective at the end of the day.

The house I am building now will have a full HRV system. In short, this would draw air out of all the 'wetrooms' and push heated air back into the other rooms. The heat of the extracted air is transferred to the incoming air. It recovers about 90% of that heat and also filters the incoming air too . So good for people with hay fever, allergies, etc. It is a great system but a nightmare to retrofit because of all the ducting. It also only really works well in pretty airtight houses too.
 
Last edited:
After a shower (steam) you need to open the window wide for 10 minutes and get fresh air in.
After cooking (steam) ditto.

You might have a poorly insulated wall e.g. I used to own a house where one bedroom wall had tiles on the front, and barely any insulation. Surprisingly this was enough for condensation to settle there overnight (from breath etc) due to it being cold i.e. moisture from the air would settle on this wall.

Then, damp.
 
Bullet said:
After a shower (steam) you need to open the window wide for 10 minutes and get fresh air in.
After cooking (steam) ditto.
Click to expand...
From reading the poo and guff thread, the steaming things you mention aren't really the main ones Marky has to worry about ventilating....
 
markysimmo said:
We have a mould issue in our house
We have been advised to buy a good quality Anti-Mould paint
I literally have no clue which one is the best to buy so anybody on here with experience or have any advice as to what to buy/use
Click to expand...

How did it work out for you?

We have a little mould problem in the utility room.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back